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Jimmyjames
 Post subject: How are pickguards made?
PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 1:04 pm 
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I want to make a clear, with Dalmatian style dots, pickguard. I haven't found any I like for sale. I don't want the yellow parts to be tinted, they must be clear.

Any suggestions of how to do this?

Thanks,

-j


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Bill Hodge
PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 1:38 pm 
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If you're of a mind to make one 'completely' from scratch, you could follow the ideas in this tutorial below. Rather than an amber epoxy, use one that's truly clear like what they use in arts and crafts. There are also 2 part urethanes that dry beautifully clear.

viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=29959&hilit=epoxy+pickguard

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These users thanked the author Bill Hodge for the post: Jimmyjames (Thu Apr 30, 2015 2:25 pm)
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Jimmyjames
PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 2:26 pm 
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Bill Hodge wrote:
If you're of a mind to make one 'completely' from scratch, you could follow the ideas in this tutorial below. Rather than an amber epoxy, use one that's truly clear like what they use in arts and crafts. There are also 2 part urethanes that dry beautifully clear.

viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=29959&hilit=epoxy+pickguard


This is great, thank you!

-j
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Glen H
PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 2:39 pm 
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I spent a lot of time trying the same as in the tutorial, but darn I could never keep the dust out. I tried in my house in a clean room, just never could get them done without specs of dust in them. If you figure out how to keep the dust out, fill me in please!
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Jimmyjames
PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 2:48 pm 
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I'm also curious about the celluloid type. How is that type made?

Dust is a problem. Hmmm... ?
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DennisK
PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 3:03 pm 
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I attempted one of these a while back too, but got bubbles in it, and it never got all that hard or stiff. I must have gotten the epoxy mix wrong (StewMac slow epoxy). I also swirled it with a toothpick, which left rumply lines in the shrinkwrap under it, and thus imprinted in the epoxy... be gentle if you use a toothpick.

One trick I heard to get rid of bubbles is to heat it up. I haven't actually tried it, but I would expect it to make the epoxy less viscous, and the bubbles expand and float up better. Might still need to poke at some of them though.
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SteveSmith
PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 4:07 pm 
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used to use epoxy for potting electronic assemblies at work. We had to use vacuum to get the bubbles out.

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Bill Hodge
PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 4:28 pm 
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I tried it once and managed to 'lose' the bubbles by using a headset magnifier and a needle. However, after it cured I managed to break it while prepping it for the guitar. Haven't tried the urethane method yet because I find that buying pre-made sheets and cutting them with my own templates is far more time (thus cost) efficient. At least in my own production environment.

Glen H, I had no problem with dust but I used a 15 min epoxy. So......

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Barry Daniels
PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 6:52 pm 
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Heat it up by placing a lamp just above the surface of the epoxy. The bubbles come right up to the surface and pop.
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John Arnold
PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2015 1:03 pm 
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Quote:
I'm also curious about the celluloid type. How is that type made?


IMHO, celluloid is the most beautiful, but making it at home is a no-go.

I used to hand paint pickguards. The base I used is 0.020" thick clear rigid vinyl. The color spots are lacquer that is tinted with lacquer/oil soluble aniline dye. The spots are painted on the backside of the pickguard with a brush. Then, clear lacquer is sprayed over the spots to 'fuzz' the edges and seal in the color. Spraying the clear lacquer was the critical step. Too much or too fast, and the color spots would run together. Too little, and the patterns would be too distinct and artificial looking. If I wanted the open areas to be amber, then I would spray amber tinted lacquer next, followed by more clear.

Image

Image

Image

Image

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These users thanked the author John Arnold for the post: Jimmyjames (Fri May 01, 2015 3:24 pm)
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Jimmyjames
PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2015 3:33 pm 
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John Arnold wrote:
Quote:
I'm also curious about the celluloid type. How is that type made?


IMHO, celluloid is the most beautiful, but making it at home is a no-go.

I used to hand paint pickguards. The base I used is 0.020" thick clear rigid vinyl. The color spots are lacquer that is tinted with lacquer/oil soluble aniline dye. The spots are painted on the backside of the pickguard with a brush. Then, clear lacquer is sprayed over the spots to 'fuzz' the edges and seal in the color. Spraying the clear lacquer was the critical step. Too much or too fast, and the color spots would run together. Too little, and the patterns would be too distinct and artificial looking. If I wanted the open areas to be amber, then I would spray amber tinted lacquer next, followed by more clear.

Image

Image

Quite impressive!

I'm thinking celluloid is the way to go since it does have a depth that I won't be able to achieve at home. The problem here is I can't find any for sale in a Dalmatian pattern. Even settling for one that isn't clear I found nothing after extensive searching. There's big suppliers out there but they don't usually sell small quantities to individuals. So I'm back at square one. I may try making my own anyway.

Where can one get a small quantity of celluloid in a Dalmatian pattern?

Image

Image
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Ruby50
PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2015 8:34 am 
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I am currently installing a purfling of gold glitter sijilar to the ones that Gibson did on a couple of fancy guitars in the 90's. I am using a clear epoxy from Michaels's craft store (no affiliation, yada, yada, yada) and the bubbles come right out of it with a touch of heat from a hair dryer.

Also, Todd Cambio of Fraulini (.com) guitars makes recessed pickguards, and he cuts pearl, glues it into the recess, pours the pickguard, and sands it flush - voila - perfect fit.

Ed
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